Ol’ Dirty Bâtard
239 West Broadway
New York, NY 10013
When my friend John Winterman (aka the silver fox) told me he was leaving his post as maitre d’hotel at one of my favorite restaurants in NYC, Daniel, I was shocked but incredibly excited to hear what he and his friend, chef Markus Glocker, were envisioning. John described a restaurant that fused fine cuisine in a casual and approachable atmosphere, a place where one could have a “glass of champagne in one hand and a pint of beer in the other.” The duo eventually teamed up with restauranteur veteran Drew Nieporent (think Montrachet, Nobu & Tribeca Grill) and opened the doors in mid-May to what Eater considered to be “THE MOST ANTICIPATED RESTAURANT OPENING” this past spring/summer. In New York Times critic Pete Wells’ 3 star review, he describes Marcus having “a sniper’s accuracy at the stove.” The recently revealed 2015 Michelin Guide awarded them one star. We’ve visited several times and have loved every bite, sip and minute. I asked John to answer a few questions for us foodies:
You and Markus Glocker have been friends for some time, how did you meet?
Markus and I met through a mutual friend, Giuseppe Tentori – we had both worked with him at Trotter’s in Chicago, albeit at different times.
Tell me about the notion of “champagne & beer” and how it works with Markus’ Austrian influences?
The idea is that you can be elegant without being pretentious. We also wanted to create an environment that was not snobbish yet still had elements of fine dining.
I love the hand-drawn map of Bâtard Montrachet featured in your wine list, you drew it?
I had some training in free hand drawing. The chalk and colored pencils I used as the medium I have had since 1990.
We know that the name of the restaurant stays true to the Burgundian history of the space but how was Bâtard picked over the other villages?
Because it has the best literal meaning! Bastard!
Tell us about how your signature cocktail Ol’ Dirty Bâtard evolved? Will you share with us the recipe, pretty please?
It started as a joke with Pierre Siue the General Manager of Daniel. He was making a comment about being an old man and referencing WuTang Clan at the same time…. my personal input was making sure the base was Jim Beam since that is what I drank in high school. Our bartender Candice Valetutti knocked it out of the park with a very complex, haunting variation of a Manhattan, complete with bright red cherry!
This summer I was obsessed with the Warm Stella Bay Oysters, what are your can’t miss dishes on the menu right now?
The Octopus “pastrami” is the can’t miss menu item right now – it is at once modern and graphic…. very New York and also very Markus!
Finally, I’ve never had a chance to ask you, but how did you get the nickname, “the silver fox”?
Gavin Kaysen the former chef at Cafe Boulud stuck me with Silver Fox back in 2008 – and it stayed!
July 15, 2014
NYC / Wine + Dine